Tuesday, February 3, 2015

History Part 1 - The origins of coffee

Today, coffee is undoubtedly the world's foremost beverage and the third most valuable physical, international commodity being traded after crude oil and gold spot and forward.   

The scientific name for coffee is Coffea arabica L. which itself hints of an origin in the ancient areas of the Middle East.


So where does the story begin? Where lies the history and origins of this humble berry that once thrived in the wilds of the Middle East and Africa?  Quite remarkably, considering the history of human civilization and it's span over the last 7000 years, the consumption of coffee beverages is a relatively new social phenomenon given that the first accurate and reliable records of its consumption demonstrate a solid practice of drinking as recent as the 10th century A.D. 


One of the first accounts we have of the discovery of the coffee berry is supposed to date back to about the 8th century A.D. There is a famous legend of an ancient goat herder. Legends and the threads of folklore usually do have some strands of historical truth twined between their fanciful episodes. In a fanciful tale, it had been suggested that a common goat-herder by the name of Kaldi, had noticed his goats eating the wild coffee berry and subsequently behaving in a stimulated and animated manner. In excitement Kaldi collected some berries and took them to a monastery close by. But the monk was not happy and according to legend, he threw the berries into the fire! Shortly after a wonderful aroma enticed several monks to take a look at the roasting berries in the fire. The roasted beans were gathered from the embers and placed into a jug of hot water to yield the world's first consumable coffee beverage.

Whether a fictional account or a tale based upon reality, it can be concluded that the coffee berry in the 9th century A.D. was widespread in the Middle East and Africa during the period that is commonly known as the Dark Ages, being the long and expansive interregnum between the fall of the Roman Empire in the  5th century A.D. and the birth of the new spirit of the Renaissance in the 13th   century A.D.  Perhaps it is one of the greatest mysteries of social culture that the coffee berry and its uses was not discovered much earlier for indeed the Egyptians were the first peoples to herd goats in the wild perhaps as far back as 4000 years B.C. Moreover, with the establishment of Roman rule it is indeed peculiar that whilst leopards and all kinds of exotic creatures and fancy marbles and stones would arrive at the port of Alexandria for export to Rome, that very little of the coffee berry should be known at this age of Roman domination in North Africa and the Middle East.

As far as the earliest records and narratives show, the coffee berry was known to have been growing profusely and wildly in the Middle East for a long time indeed. Thus the legend of Kaldi may have a semblance of truth. It is thought that the origins of the coffee berry lie in modern Ethiopia and East Africa and historical texts, narratives and accounts point to a rich history of trading and cultivation that goes back as far as the 9th century A.D. and in all probability the coffee berry had been known for several more centuries before. Ancient history has shown that one of the first animals to have been domesticated was in fact the goat In ancient Egypt c. 4000 years B.C. goats and sheep were introduced to the sub-Saharan Africa as agriculture grew along the river Nile, with the sowing of grains like wheat and barley. Rain of course was unreliable so people had to plan their irrigation to grow such grain crops. Thus the consumption of meats was also important in the economy of the time, and cattle like cow, sheep and goat, all became domesticated, each with its own penchant for a particular type of food source. Eventually grain agriculture and domesticated cattle would stretch across the entire region from modern Turkey to Syria to Iraq and Iran and down into the Jordan. All manners of vegetation from legumes to nuts and berries, and in particular, the ancient coffee berry would soon flourish by the time of the Rise of the Mediterranean power Rome with it's political and cultural influence stretching into the region from c. 3rd century B.C. - c. 4th century A.D. 

Nature tends to work in a circular fashion. An animal cannot thrive without a suitable sustenance. Since the region was bereft of adequate rainfall, it would naturally follow that cattle and indeed goats would soon come to inhabit a sub-Saharan region only where nourishment is in plenitude, such as in the form of wild grasses and foods such as berries, and indeed the very coffee berry itself. 

The tale of Kaldi is certainly an interesting one as it narrates an element of human observation and analysis. The goat herder had noticed his goats preferring to chew on the coffee berry and noticed the energizing effects upon the goat some time after consumption. Human intrigue and inquisition would naturally follow suit.  We watch, we tend to mimic. So one may surmise that eventually people would also have come to chew upon the coffee berry after watching their goats. Thus the fabric of legend bear interesting threads of truth as a story grows into a culture. Many centuries before the first historical records of the coffee berry being turned into a beverage man may have chewed upon the coffee berry much as the betel nut was chewed upon in Asia as a pastime for the relief of tension and natural enjoyment, very much like the modern day chewing of gum.

Although it is not until the 11th century A.D. where solid evidence arises of a coffee drinking culture with the religious practices of the Sufi in Yemen, there are several reasons to believe that the consumption of coffee had earlier origins as legends and narratives show.

Another fascinating tale tells us of a Sufi mystic known as Abul Hasan ash-Shadhili who traveled all over the Middle East in the early 13th century A.D. Whilst traveling in Ethiopia the mystic had observed some animated  eating some wild berries. Thus he also tried eating the berry and found the taste to be delightful.Yet, another account mentions the disciple of Abul Hasan ash-Shadhili, Omar, who was known to be a healer of sickness. Omar through the tribulations of exile was wondering near a desert cave at Ousab and stumbled upon the coffee berries. Thereafter, he gathered the berries and roasted them and dissolved them in water. The resulting liquid was consumed and gave Omar great vitality.

And now from the ancient world to the Medieval Ages .... http://thegenteelworldofcoffee.blogspot.com/2015/02/the-origins-of-coffee-part-2_13.html


Pieter Bergli - Reflections upon the history of the coffee berry

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